Writer + eater
Fatto a Mano Pizzeria
Advertorial food review
Extreme satisfaction
Not to start on too much of a downer, but once September ends I get a bit grumpy.
The sun’s heat becomes a fading memory. And walking anywhere means pulling your hood up, praying that our never-suitable shoes can resist the driving rain.
On a particularly rank Monday evening towards the beginning of this annual change, I grumped out into the pouring rain, hood pulled low over my brow, readying myself for the inevitable blocks of ice my extremities turn into in the cold.
Fortunately, I'm just heading around the corner to London Road's newest ray of sunshine: Fatto A Mano.
Translating to ‘handmade’, Fatto lives its namesake with thin and soft Neapolitan bases – made fresh daily. A long-prove means little yeast is required, giving them a lightness rarely found with such cuisine. Fired up to a spicy 450 degrees, the chefs give each pizza a scorching kiss from their authentic oven, bringing the crust up to a perfectly pillowy consistency that'd get even the most childlike of crust-leavers to devour them.
Brighton’s most vibrant and authentic pizza palace welcomes me (and my friend Holly) with a wall of heat as we enter. Much more like it. Coats off, let the vay-cay begin.
I scan the menu for a drinks, my eyes pausing on the Sicilian Lemonade Spritz. Sounds Italian, let's do it. Sour, fizzy, sweet. Delicious. Holly's had a bit of a day of it, so goes for a cheeky Aperol Spritz, classically made. That perks her up.
Having spent the summer travelling around Europe, Holly reckons she's now the expert on all things continental. She reminisces about basking on balconies, sipping cocktails in the sun. The ambience of the restaurant ‘takes her back’ to those sunny afternoons in Italia.
To be fair, from the sleek varnished wood to the blue and white tiles, it actually does feel like we’ve been transported to southern Europe. I'll give her that.
Starting our feast, we share a dish of Olive Pugliesi (olives from Puglia, no less) served with olive oil. Salty umami oozes from each juicy mouthful. And I'm salivating just thinking about it.
Round two. Holly goes for the traditional Margherita, made up of tomato, basil, mozzarella and Parmesan. She makes the appropriate satisfied 'mmm's, as I roll up my sleeves.
I choose the Fatto Vegan 'Nduja. You can tell a quality pizza place by their tomato sauce, and my, was this a good one. Layered with vegan mozzarella (you'd never know), vegan ‘nduja with a gorgeous slow-burning kick, fried aubergine, red onions and black olives both giving it some on the texture front, hardcore chilli, and a couple of basil leaves to lighten things up, it was as close to perfection as you can get in the UK.
A clatter of cutlery. We've made light work of our pizzas.
Our waiter comes over with a look in his eye, suggesting we try their special desert: Scugnizzielli Nutella. Why not, we think. Our food hasn't hit our stomachs yet, so we're bold in our choice.
These Nutella-drenched fried pizza doughnut strips are dusted with sugar and accompanied by a generous scoop of vanilla gelato (wtf, I know).
Was this the dish that pushed us over the edge into a carb-coma? Yes. Would I do it again without hesitation? Abso-flippin'-lutely.
We sit in content silence, feeling chic (if a little full) amid the Mediterranean vibes. It's not until a deep rumble of thunder echoes through the building that we realise our two-hour holiday has come to an end.
But something's changed: a break from the grey, a delectable aftertaste, and a warmth inside that only comes from a lovingly prepared feast.
How's that for beating the holiday blues.
Fatto A Mano is at 77 London Road, Brighton, BN1 4JF
Words by Freya Hughes